From owner-fsj-digest@digest.net Tue Feb 12 09:23:02 2002 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Tuesday, February 12 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1566 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: Re: How To Get A Real Charge Out Of Life fsj: TF727 got fixed this weekend fsj: Starter/Relay Custom Cable fsj: Left Tie Rod End Re: fsj: Trailboss's last ride fsj: Wanted: J10 Dana 44 housing and axles fsj: Need help locating.... fsj: Condolences (Was Trailboss's last ride) fsj: Gary's AMC & 1941-87 Jeep Online Fleamarket Page Re: fsj: Need help locating.... FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest@digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request@digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 06:32:47 -0600 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Re: How To Get A Real Charge Out Of Life Excellent advice! Thanks, - --Vince '81 Wag '99 TJ - ----- Original Message ----- From: "B. C." To: "PHOENIX FSJ LIST" Sent: Monday, February 11, 2002 5:00 AM Subject: fsj: How To Get A Real Charge Out Of Life > Greetings To The FSJ World! > > The USS GW received a new positive battery lug, and harness combination > this past Saturday. For those of you new to the group the USS GW is a > 1989. Those who own a GW from this era know that the positive cable > assembly is made up of two primary cables coming off of the lug. A 4 > gauge that goes to the starter, and and 8 gauge that goes to the starter > relay to power the rest of the systems on the rig. On the #4 leg going > to the starter is the trigger lead for the starter that comes from the > starter relay to the starter solenoid. > > Time had taken its toll on this harness. It needed replaced. The > dealer was looking at around $125 for this assembly. The local parts > stores wanted around $95, but none of them had stock on the harness, if > they even showed availability in their computer. > > Then I had an idea. These young generation X guys who like to hop up > japanese brand X cars frequently toast the tiny electrical systems when > they toss in a big stereo that draws a lot of juice, unless they have > this equipment installed by a pro. We have several high end stereo > shops here in town that specialize in these custom installations. The > guys that do this work build custom heavy duty harnesses all of the > time. So I took my existing harness to one of the stereo shops to see > if it could be duplicated. > > Fortunately the installation guy was of the age that he remembered > driving HEMI Cuda's when they were new. So I knew that he had some > years of experience. For $45 he built me a very sinister looking, heavy > duty harness for my rig. The craftsmanship in is work was quite > apparent. Far better then what I would have purchased from the dealer. > It fit great, and now I have a lot of juice to all of my accessories, > and the starter fires over with a vengeance. > > So if you need custom battery cable you might try looking at a > nontraditional supplier; car stereo installation shops. > > > Until The Next Dimension, > Admiral "Coluch." > Starfleet Headquarters > Ohio Post > END TRANSMISSION.................................... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:38:14 GMT From: Ken Gaines Subject: fsj: TF727 got fixed this weekend Mornin' fellow Jeepers... Well, here's the scoop on the TF727 rebuild.... Tranny removal was as usual...a PITA. The transfer case came off without a fight. The rebuild was nothing short of time consuming. It took 2 days to completely disassemble, clean, and reassemble the whole thing. (Sorry I didn't get any pics...poor college students such as myself can't afford digital cameras until AFTER graduation.) General transmission condition was pretty good. The pump needed a little coaxing from the 3/8"x16 jacking bolts I bought. After that, I started to disassemble the tranny...ONE PIECE AT A TIME. The front drum was tricky, but I managed (against Jim's better advice) to get the seals changed out with the help of some 4" c-clamps...and some polycarbonate safety glasses just in case. The clutches looked like they were okay, but I went ahead and replaced them anyway since I spent $70 on the kit and I had the parts. The one strange thing I noticed in this tranny was that there were 4 clutch discs in the front half of the front drum and only 3 discs in the rear half. The kit included 8 discs. Strange though this may have seemed, I went ahead and reassembled the drum EXACTLY as it had come apart. This, I thought, would be the worst part of the whole thing...boy was I wrong. Once I got the front drum cleaned (with LOTS of brake cleaner) I set the reassembled front drum to the side and covered it with plastic sheeting. Now, I went about the task of replacing the rear tranny seals. One piece of advice for anyone attempting this....get yourself a REALLY good set of snap ring pliers. The ones I had weren't worth a flip and it took me 2 hours to get the snap ring off of the output shaft so that I could get the planetaries out of the case. With that accomplished, the removal of the output shaft and drums was pretty easy. Replacement of the seals was simple. Then I put the rearmost drum back into the over-running clutch. "Boy am I lucky," I thought. "The over-running clutch didn't come apart when I took the rear drum out." Then it happened. The internal gear of the sprag fell out and all those fan springs and rollers fell out of the case and went everywhere in my shop. That was REALLY a PITA to fix. Two hours later, I had them all put back where they went and working. This was NOT fun. The bands were in good shape, so I went ahead (for $$ sake) and reused them. I disassembled the servos once I had both drums set aside. This was where I found a SERIOUS problem. One that I have yet to fix. The rear servo unit was in good shape. I replaced the piston rings and set it back in the case. (The 8" c- clamps came in handy for this section of the rebuild.) I removed the accumulator piston (the one that is actually under the valve body), replaced its seals and set it back in the case. No problem. Now, I removed the FRONT servo and started cussing when I saw what was inside. Pieces of the upper piston (the smaller one) were in the bore of the housing. The housing wasn't scored (much to my surprise...we will call this the grace of God) but the smaller piston ring was fragmented and a small piece of the piston had cracked off of the smaller diameter end. This was bad...it was also probably the source of the problem that prompted this tranny rebuild project. Well, I set about looking for a piston ring to replace the broken one and found that my kit did not include one. More cussing. The temp fix here is a Viton o-ring on the bottom of that piston. I also smoothed the broken area with a Dremel tool so that it wouldn't score the inside of the tranny housing. I don't know if it worked yet, but I will find out when I get home from work today. I am going to open the test ports on the tranny case and test the servos with my air compressor. If it works, I will leave it alone until I can find another piston to replace the broken one. (Any ideas out there?) I am planning to go to my friend's junkyard and get the front servo piston out of another TF727 that I gave to him. The last part of the rebuild was to replace the seals in the tailshaft housing. This was pretty easy after I made 3 trips to the parts house to exchange the seal from my kit for the correct seal. Next was the CAREFUL reinstallation of the output shaft assembly. With that done, I set the parking pawl rod back into place and bolted the housing back on the tranny case. The reinstallation of that planetaries and front drum was last. I bolted the rebuilt front pump back on the housing and finished my weekend project. A few pieces of advice for anyone attempting this project. First off, and I can't stress this enough...make sure you have a CLEAN work area. I actually had to lock the door to my shop from the outside to keep the ever-present South Texas wind from blowing sand into my transmission. Sand is bad. Second, Make sure you don't let those little rollers and springs in the sprag clutch fall out all over your workshop floor. They are not easy to reinstall. Third, buy lots of brake cleaner. You will need it. Fourth, if you have a bench where you can put the tranny and its associated guts at about chest level, do the work there. I don't have a bench that has enough available space for a transmission. My back and legs are really giving me fits this morning because I was bent over a transmission all weekend long. Fifth, soak all the clutches and seals in transmission fluid before you install them. I started soaking the clutch discs the night before I planned to start the project. I even went so far as to soak each and every part I removed for several minutes before I replaced it. I wire- brushed every bolt, the shafts, and all the other steel parts. After I brushed them off, I wiped them down with a clean, lint-free rag soaked in tranny fluid before I reassembled them. I used 2 cans of brake cleaner to hose out the inside of the tranny case before I started reinstalling parts. Lastly, the best way to do this is in the order that you remove parts. Take a part out, disassemble it, soak its new parts in tranny fluid, and reassemble it. Set the reassembled part to the side and cover it so that nothing like sand or metal flakes can settle on it. The tools you will need the most are c-clamps, snap ring pliers, and a torque wrench that reads in inch-pounds. So, now that you have the scoop on automatic tranny rebuilding, I will ask a question. I can't seem to find my shop manual and I don't know the values for adjusting the front and rear bands. The adjustment for the rear band is inside the oil pan and I can't close the thing up until I get the band adjusted. If anyone out there in FSJ-Land has these values handy, please send them to me ASAP so that I can button this thing up. Have a great week everyone. Let's all keep Jim in our thoughts and prayers. Talk to you soon. O)||||||(O Ken "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in experiences" - -Jimmy Buffett "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" 1998 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:09:38 -0600 From: Landon Tesar Subject: fsj: Starter/Relay Custom Cable Hey, Brian, do you have any specs on this ? Could this supplier duplicate this for the rest of us? I think I replaced my power cable, and broke it down into individual links. - - Landon '89 GW - --------------------- > Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 06:00:00 -0500 > From: "B. C." > Subject: fsj: How To Get A Real Charge Out Of Life > > Greetings To The FSJ World! > > The USS GW received a new positive battery lug, and harness combination > this past Saturday. For those of you new to the group the USS GW is a > 1989. Those who own a GW from this era know that the positive cable > assembly is made up of two primary cables coming off of the lug. A 4 > gauge that goes to the starter, and and 8 gauge that goes to the starter > relay to power the rest of the systems on the rig. On the #4 leg going > to the starter is the trigger lead for the starter that comes from the > starter relay to the starter solenoid. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 10:21:42 -0600 From: Landon Tesar Subject: fsj: Left Tie Rod End Hi, I replaced the driver's tie rod end on the Wag. Pretty simple, common sense. The ball shaft was loose and may have worn the hub link oblong, I'm not sure. It's tight now, but could quickly get loose again. I had to tighten it several threads. Nice to get into something like that and have it work out easily. - - Landon '89 GW ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 09:36:45 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Trailboss's last ride Thanks to all for the condolences. There are 2 ways we can look at things. Our own selfishness at wanting to keep a family member around no matter what, or the removal of their personal pain. Since he has been in ill health for several years, his body just gave out, but he is no longer in pain. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 12:00:05 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: fsj: Wanted: J10 Dana 44 housing and axles I came across a deal on some good used gears from a friend of mine, and now I need a centered housing ('80 and newer or possibly from a J10 with Dana 20 transfercase) and axles (unless my Model 20 are the same). I have some stuff I can swap or buy it outright. I'm in Seattle, so cross country stuff probably wouldn't be worthwhile. I'm going to try Oly4x4.com tomorrow (they are closed sunday/monday) Blackie before pics and my homepage http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/FESTS/Snohomish-April2-2000/PIC00004.JPG http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 14:29:29 -0800 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: Need help locating.... I've got a '76 401 that used to be in front of a TH400. Now it's going in front of a T-18. What do I have to do with the flywheel? Basically I know nothing!!! So I come before the FSJ guru's to ask for advise. As I understand it I need to do *something* to change the flywheel so that it works with a manual rather than an auto but I don't know what. Any hints/tips/tricks/advise would be most appreciated! Thanks, Scott '84 CYJ-7 '76 Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2002 15:36:55 -0800 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: Condolences (Was Trailboss's last ride) Jim, My condolences on your fathers passing. It's tought to loose a loved one. There will always be regrets but just remember that as you move on you'll has memorise to share with your children and family members. You'll be able to leave them with positive stories and experiences about your father and his memory will live on with them. Scott ___________________________________ From: "Jim B" Subject: fsj: Trailboss's last ride A: About noon yesterday The Trailboss (aka my dad) passed on and left me some mighty big shoes to fill (except for my uncle, I'm the oldest male in the family now). He loved the wild backcountry and fishing at lakes far from the Madding crowd as often as he could. I had planned to take him camping last summer, but my job turned down my vacation time 3 times (I've now gone a year and a half w/o vacation or a raise) due to lack of replacement people. Had I known I wouldn't have this summer to spend with my dad, I would have told them to take this job and shove it! (those of you lucky enough to have family worth spending time with, pull them close because you never know!) He wasn't always the easiest to get along with (till after he quit drinking) but if you knew his background you'd understand. (his Father left home when he was barely a teen, then he ran off at 16 to join the US Army and came back a Korean war vet, promoted to Sargeant in the field after Heartbreak Ridge and the battle at Da Nangh {sp?}) Sometimes I think Clint's movie of that name was about him, but he didn't want to talk about the war and he drank to try to forget it and the internal pain it caused him. I don't really know why I had to send this out, but I did. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 22:07:10 -0800 From: "Jim B" Subject: fsj: Gary's AMC & 1941-87 Jeep Online Fleamarket Page http://www.carr.lib.md.us/~gripper/amcclassified.html Blackie before pics and my homepage http://wagoneers.com/JEEPS/FESTS/Snohomish-April2-2000/PIC00004.JPG http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2002 13:33:46 GMT From: Ken Gaines Subject: Re: fsj: Need help locating.... Scott, First of all, you need to remove the ALMOST invisible spacer that lives in the end of the 401's crankshaft. If you don't remove it, you will never get a pilot bushing in it. Second, you have to get the flywheel that came from a 401. If you want a new one, you can get one at www.partsmike.com. He sells them new and used. Anyway, if you use a flywheel from an I-6 or a smaller V8, it probably will be bad for your engine because the balancing between AMC engines is different. I know the I-6 is internally balanced where the AMC V8's were externally balanced. Congrats on finding a 401. I have been looking for one here in South Texas for about 2 years now. Hope this helps. O)||||||(O Ken > I've got a '76 401 that used to be in front of a TH400. Now it's going in > front of a T-18. What do I have to do with the flywheel? > > Basically I know nothing!!! So I come before the FSJ guru's to ask for > advise. > > As I understand it I need to do *something* to change the flywheel so that it > works with a manual rather than an auto but I don't know what. > Any hints/tips/tricks/advise would be most appreciated! > > Thanks, > > Scott > '84 CYJ-7 > '76 Wagoneer "Life is a journey that's measured not in miles or years, but in experiences" - -Jimmy Buffett "A Pirate Looks at Fifty" 1998 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1566 **************************