fsj-digest Monday, March 25 2002 Volume 01 : Number 1600
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 18:17:47 -0800
From: "seevers"
Subject: fsj: Re: RE: TH400 Info
The BW QT bolt pattern is a pattern all its own. Also, the input shaft is
unique. To mate a D300 to a TH400, you will need aftermarket parts -- such
as AA.
Another problem you might have using a D300 with a TH400 is interferance
with the front driveline and the TH400 pan -- especially if you have a CV
(actually, double cardon) joint on the transfercase end of the front
driveline. If this is a problem, possible ways to get around it are
reclocking the t-case, grinding on the TH400, eliminating the CV joint or
reversing the front driveshaft, and adding lift. The D300 does not offset
the front output as far as most other t-cases, such as the D20, NP2XX, and
BW QT.
If you find a chevy TH400 mated to a NP2XX t-case, the adaptor will work to
mate the D300 to the TH400, except -- it will be clocked differently than
the D300 is normally. This might be good -- it could help provide clearance
to the front driveshaft. But, the output shaft used for TH400 to New
Process t-cases will not work for the D300 because Chevy uses a different
spline count than jeep. Chevy is something like 27. The D300 will be 23.
So that doesn't solve all the problems.
If you want a really bullet-proof drivetrain, you might want to consider an
NP205 t-case mated to your TH400. TH400 to NP205 combinations were factory
in some GM vehicles. The NP205 is one of the strongest t-cases ever made.
Its a tight fit clearing the frame rails in an FSJ with an NP205, but some
FSJers have done it successfully.
- -brad
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Date: Mon, 25 Mar 2002 17:48:55 GMT
From: Ken Gaines
Subject: fsj: TH400 vs TF727/Dana 300 combo
I have a Dana 300 mounted to a TF727 in my FSJ-powered 1980 CJ7. While
installing the combo, I ran into the clearance problem with my front
driveshaft. I took care of the problem with a springover lift...completed this
weekend, I might add...almost 6 inches on my CJ7. Another thing that a lot of
CJ owners run into with a TF727 install is that the FSJ kickdown is not only
too long to fit in the CJ frame, it is a pain in the neck to adjust. To remedy
this problem, the Lokar kickdown cable is just what Dr. Jeep ordered. For ease
of installation/adjustment and reliability, the Lokar cable has 'em all beat
HANDS DOWN.
The TF727 and Dana 300 combo is a really neat set-up. Contrary to popular
belief, a Dana 300 transfer case will bolt DIRECTLY to an FSJ TF727. I know
this because that is where my TF727 came from. There is NO offset bolt hole or
stud on either the transmission adapter or the transfer case flange. There is
what APPEARS to be an offset hole on the transmission adapter. This "offset
hole" isn't even in the bolt circle for the 6 studs the Dana 300 transfer case
uses. You can't overcome the front driveshaft clearance issue with "clocking"
of the T/C. The reason is that if you clock it downward, the front yoke will be
pointing almost DIRECTLY downward and it will be centered in relation to the
front driveshaft. This will give you an undesirable compound driveshaft angle.
It may also cause lack of lubrication issues in the T/C itself. If you try to
clock the T/C upward by one hole, you will never be able to get the front
driveshaft in the truck...the engine and bellhousing are definitely in the way.
It is best to just leave it clocked the way it is originally and tackle the
clearance issue with a lift of some kind. A CJ7 needs AT LEAST 4" of lift to
pull it off. Because of the longer wheel base, an FSJ may be able to get away
with a little less lift, but I wouldn't chance it. If the front passenger side
suspension compresses too much, say goodbye to Mr. Transmission because it will
eat the pan and mounting flange on the bottom of the TF727. I also installed a
dropped bump stop brace in my CJ to prevent this from happening.
You will not be able to get a double-cardan u-joint on the space between the
transmission and the front of the t-case with a TF727/Dana 300 combo. Just put
the "short end" (double cardan end) of the front driveshaft on the diff yoke.
No problem there.
If you have a LOT of lift, clearance won't be a problem, but rear driveshaft
angles may be. I was able to tackle this during the process of my SOA by
pointing the pinion yoke at the rear t-case yoke before welding the perches on
the axle tube. I have about as straight a rear driveline angle as you can get.
One more thing about a Dana 300 t-case...it uses strap-style retainers for
the u-joints. There is no way to drill the yokes to accept a u-bolt, BUT, there
is a way to fix it. Most FSJ'ers should have access to a BW 13-39 (QT) transfer
case. If you have access to TWO QT cases, this is even better. The FRONT yoke
of a BW 13-39 t/c will bolt directly onto a Dana 300 transfer case. Both Dana
300 output yokes are the same size/spline count. SOOOO...if you can get 2 FRONT
output yokes from 2 QT cases, you can fix the problem of the strap-style u-
joint retainers. U-bolts are, of course, the same as the QT case would use. I
have the P/N's at home. I will post them tomorrow if anyone is interested.
The last thing that is really nice about my TF727/Dana 300 combo is the fact
that I did the twin-stick mod on the case. Now, I can control both axles
independently of one another. I can also run in front-wheel-drive WITHOUT
excessive torque wrap in the rear should I toss a driveshaft or roast a u-
joint...or, God forbid, destroy another rear end. This was REALLY simple to do.
If anyone else is interested in how I did it, let me know and I will email/post
instructions and maybe even some pics if I can get a digital camera.
On the FSJ side of the house, I just acquired a new project. It is my
friend's 1979 (?) Cherokee Chief. It is needing a new engine very badly. So, we
have decided to install an early Bronco driveline and suspension in it. 351M
engine, C6 trans, NP205 (?) T/C, Ford 9" rear, Dana 44 front, coil spring front
suspension. Any tips here, guys?
Talk to you all again soon. Enjoy Ouray...I'll be on Padre Island kicking up
sand.
O)||||||(O
Ken
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End of fsj-digest V1 #1600
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